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Pruning
from: EugeneWhen discussing roses, the conversation will almost always turn to pruning. When and how often you prune is essential to the overall appearance and healthiness of your plant, but how you do it is the most important factor. Many novice rose gardeners often do not prune at all out of fear of damaging the bush, even though that is the very tactic that will ruin a lovely garden.
The reasons for pruning are to improve the appearance of the bush, stimulate growth, and control the quality and quantity of blooms. You will not kill a bush by pruning and, in fact, if a bush is doing poorly, severe pruning will give it the best chance of recovery. The general rule of thumb is moderate pruning for healthy bushes and aggressive pruning for the unhealthy. Under pruning your roses will result in spindly bushes with poor bloom quality.
The first thing to do is to purchase a pair of decent pruning shears available at any home and garden center. For very large bushes, you may also want to bring along a pair of large loping shears. Wear a long sleeve shirt to protect your arms and gloves to protect your hands. Make sure that all equipment is sharp and clean. All cuts should be made at a 45 degree angle about ¼ of an inch above outward facing growth and should slant away from the growth.
Begin by cutting out all dead canes right down to the ground. Secondly, remove all diseased and damaged canes back to healthy wood. The healthy wood is green when cut. Those two steps are the basic requirements for any rose maintenance and most be done at least once per year. Now that the shaping and disease control is finished, you can concentrate on bloom quality. First, remove any stems thinner than a pencil because they will produce poor, small blooms. Secondly, prune back the canes left according rose type. The general rule is to cut them by one third. In so doing, you are continually renewing the rose bush while at the same time keeping a supply of good flower producing wood.
Take care to investigate the proper amount of pruning required for the type of bush that you have. For example, the timing and method for bloom quality pruning is different for Climbers than Hybrid Teas. Hybrid Teas, in and of themselves, are known to require the most aggressive pruning of all classes of rose. Most major pruning is done at the very end of winter/beginning of spring. A few varieties require early summer pruning instead, so check with your local cooperative extension if you are in doubt.
If your roses are grafted, and many of the most interesting varieties are, you must take care to watch for sucker growth. Suckers are growth that emerges from the root of the bush and must be dealt with quickly since they divert resources from the bush. Simply dig down to the root by following the path of the sucker and snap it off at the point of emergence. If you only cut it off at ground level you will be encouraging the growth of more suckers than you originally had.
The last type of pruning is dead-heading. Dead-heading refers to the practice of removing spent blooms before they develop seed. This will encourage longer blooming periods for your bush. Dead-heading should not be practiced after October 1st in most regions because the bush needs to harden off for the winter. Dead-heading is practiced in the summer, generally on a day to day simple form of pruning. Simply cut the rose at a point on the stem approximately ¼ inch above a five or seven leaflet – a stem with five or seven leaves. The healthier the plant, the more vigorously you may dead-head.
The writing of this article on rose gardening consumed much of our time. However, it’s worth as long as the article proves it’s worth in imparting knowledge on rose gardening.
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